Bruce’s Pick: 2016 Marcelle de Changey Puligny Montrachet, $54

As this is being printed, I will be at our rental in Puligny, most likely sipping a glass of local wine. IMHO this little village’s surrounding vineyards produce the greatest white wines in the world. My selection this month is a modest Puligny Montrachet village A.C. (though some might argue that there are no modest wines from this appellation), not one of the legendary Grand Crus a couple of hundred meters up the slope that command price tags of $500 to $1000 and up.

I chose this wine partly because I was headed to Puligny, but also because it was a new producer to me and to the store, (and from another highly touted vintage for white Burgundy). The layers of complexity and extra depth for which this village is renowned are immediately apparent on the nose and carry through on the palate. Notes of pear, ripe peach and acacia flower play against each other, with a touch of the exotic. As it sits in the glass and takes on air, it seems to grow in stature and in length—a good sign for future development. This is indeed a stellar example of Chardonnay from hallowed ground, and I was thrilled to discover a new under-the-radar producer, reasonably priced given where it’s from. I will be looking for more examples of this producer on my trip to Burgundy.