Bruce’s Pick: 2016 Bulliat Beaujolais Village, $14.99.

Every year about this time (late Nov.) the Beaujolais that gets all the press is the Nouveau....the fresh new harvest that is always released the 3rd Thursday of November. And every year this event reminds me of all the more serious "year-round" Beaujolais that are available and that we stock in the store. 

My wine pick is not one of the top Crus--the ten single villages allowed to don their own name on the label (of which we feature dozens), but a middle-range Beaujolais from a defined geographical area encompassing all those villages. This example exhibits the characteristics that I look for in a mid- level Beaujolais: soft approachable red fruit with a fresh finishing lift and subtle floral notes. It is not complicated, but it is oh soquaffable...what the French call "gueulant".  The Crus, such as the Morgon from this same producer, is more dark fruited, full bodied and more age-worthy.

So enjoy the Nouveaus for what they are--a celebration of the new harvest--but don't mistake them for the real deal, a serious wine worthy of your attention.