2012 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner, Terrassen Federspiel, $21.00

Recently, I was privileged to attend a dinner planned around serving four mature, older Grüner Veltliners from some of the greatest producers in Austria. The vintages served were 2001, 1993, 1991 and 1985. They showed wonderfully fresh, silky and complex. This was an eye-opener for me. Even though Grüner Veltliners have become one of our go-to house whites, I had never experienced 20 to 30 year old examples. Well, I’m not suggesting that you wait that long to enjoy my wine pick this month; waiting until you get home for dinner should suffice. The Domäne Wachau is located in its namesake region: the Wachau Valley. With its rocky, steeply terraced vineyards, this is one of the greatest sites in all of Austria for growing the Grüner Veltliner grapes and this wine speaks of its terroir and its pedigree. My first impression upon inhaling the bouquet from my glass was that of freshness, and I thought of the smell of freshly laundered white sheets billowing in the breeze and sunshine. There is a discrete spiciness and herbal note that adds interest and complexity. Grüners are very complimentary at the table with a variety of foods—I particularly like to pair them with pork dishes, but have also enjoyed them with shrimp.